D Baits – 3.5″ Flat sided crankbaits

I wanted flat sided, easy to make, crankbait that wobbled heavily. So I designed this to try and fit the bill. I really liked the D bait which is very similar to the Bomber Flat A that my buddy Reps for Pradco. I wanted them in varying sizes for what ever fish I wanted to chase. I measured them out and drew them into AutoCAD and made templates I could cutout. I might share them here, if I get the interest in them.

D Bait-DesignSo, I now had a design and knew how I wanted to make them. I like using cedar, or light stuff like that for poppers, but for crankbaits, I like harder woods. I had some basswood before and now I am using some poplar available in the home stores. Light weight stuff is good for popper action but I want these strong. The stuff I bought is 2 1/2″ wide and in the finished lumber section in Lowes. They have it in 2′ and 3′ lengths varying thicknesses. Thick boards can make this or two thin ones can make a through wired lure and even add a rattle camber, I’ll show that on another post.

I needed my patterns on my wood blanks so I could cut them out. I got back into AutoCAD and had my lure shapes made into Blocks that I can move around. I shifted them around per the various sizes so I could get the most per board. Then I printed them out and cut out the strips. They all got glued to the various size thickness board I needed for the lures. See the attached picture of my template strips.

Print strips

Once I had the strips cut out I just used a bit of Elmer’s glue and stick the paper all to the wood so they could be cut out on the band saw. I don’t have any pictures of this, but might in later posts as I have a bunch of Rat-l-traps to make. I am sure you can imagine what they look like all cut out. The slot for the dive blade is cut in now. It is so much easier now as you have the line for the dive blade, the lure is still flat and right on the saw. I have a dive blade there to make sure it goes in, but is still very tight. See the top picture for where the dive blade slot gets cut.

The blanks where all taken to the drill press, you could use a hand drill, but I have cheap a drill press and it make simpler for me. I drilled small holes above the blade and at the tail for the hook hangers. On these I used large screw eyes that would be screwed in with a dab of epoxy, so I used a small hole. On smaller ones I used twisted wire hook hangers made myself to save money and the hole was bigger as they are epoxied in. The middle hole is the belly weight hole. Some guys use a weight with a hook hanger cast in it, but I don’t think all those hooks are needed, so I just use a belly weight and a single tail hook. Spinner baits catch tons of fish with just a single hook. Plus there are studies on single hooks improving fish survivability.

You have to decide on the weights you buy, or cast, and pick the hole to be drilled. These are 5/16″ weight, but I can’t remember the size right off, as I lost the recipe sheet I wrote. Then they are off to the belt sander  to be smoothed, have the corners rounded and the paper sanded off.

Now to showing you the belly weight being added. The dive bill is not glued in yet and just sitting there. You can see the line tie screw hole and belly weight out and placed in with a little glue. Then just covered with wood putty. Some guys say you need body filler, but I have not had fish chew them up.

Bottom weight out

BottomThe next part is sealing the lure. When doing open through wired lures I dip the lures in Mineral spirits and linseed oil to really waterproof them. For these kinds I just coats with two coats of varnish and then a base coat of white to start the painting.

You have to make sure the belly weight makes the lure float correctly. With it sealed I take it for a float in the bathroom sink to make sure it floats as I want it to with the hooks and screw eyes all in.

Float with three-eights oz weight

On these I used the screw eyes, so I had to set them at this time and use them to hang for painting. I will cover using a dowel and hand made hook hangers, making lure painting easier in another post. Then they where spray painted, had glitter added, the dive blades set and covered with EnviroTex Lite epoxy. Do not use 5 minute epoxy! Yes its cheaper and it will yellow and ruin your lures, been there and done that! I will go more into depth on other posts about all this process, this is just about this one lure type.

Now for a few finished 3 1/2″ D Bait crankbaits with single 4/0 dressed rear hooks.

D Bait 3half YellowD Bait 3half White

And one made with Silver Metal Duct tape, to be covered in another blog post.

D Bait 3half Silver

And now for a video of the action.

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8 responses to “D Baits – 3.5″ Flat sided crankbaits

    • I posted a template for the 2.5″ which are pretty Bass size and all the lip templates. What size are you looking for? I have not sized other lures as prototypes so you would have to experiment with belly weight and hooks.

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