No drill fish finder mount for slide trax

Along the same line of my last blog post, I wanted the fish finder on my new kayak, but did not want to drill any holes at all in the kayak. I just want to avoid all holes and the fish finder will be removed in the winter when this becomes my hunting kayak for taking the dog after waterfowl. So, I cut a piece of black cutting board about 4 1/2″ wide by 6″ long. I drilled two 1/4″ holes in the end where it attaches to the Slide Trax and used the same spacings as shown on the Scotty mount template.

1 - base

This side view shows the 2″ Stainless steel hex head bolt that will be the hinge for the transceiver deployment arm with a thumb screw nut on it, found at Lowes in the pull out draws in the hardware section. Tighten the loose 8-32 nuts up until it is their turn to be heated. This keeps the fish finder mount from moving and do not put any heat on them until they are ready to be set. Then loosen them to the end of the bold before heating and slide them in. Then tighten the bolt loosely until cooled, then it can be tightened fully. Heat each nut or bolt head slowly. The stainless starts to discolor and darken a bit when its hot enough, if it starts to turn bronze, you’re using too much heat. Push the nut in flush into the cutting board and tighten the bolt just enough to snug it until it cools. then it can be tighten the rest of the way once cool.

2 - base

Top view of the mount with the Hummingbird base set with 1″ 8-32 stainless steel bolts and nuts.

3 - base

This is how the nuts for the 8-32 and the hex head bolt look after being heated and pressed into the cutting board while hot.

4 - base

Then how they recessed nuts and hex head look after a trip on the belt sander to reduce all protruding metal that would scratch the kayak hull.

5 - base

The mount from the top with the nuts and bolts all set. If trying this yourself, the 2″ hex head bolt did not like to stay uprights and wanted to lean over all the time. After I had heat set this into the cutting board I had to sit the board down and stabilize the bolt for about two minutes or more until all the plastic cooled. All of the other bolts and nuts are stabilized by the humming bird mount.

6 - base

This is the power plug that I used for the battery box. The fish finder stays on the kayak, but the battery does not. It just free floats in the end of the foot well. When transporting I just unplug and stow the battery in the truck. $2.99 at the auto parts store.

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The battery box is the smaller Outdoor brand dry box from Walmart in the camping section that costs about $6.99 and here I have it to be drilled by the step drill until the rubber stopper, from the Lowes hardware draw, fits how I want it too.???????????????????????????????

The fit of the stopper plug. I have it mounted this way as all stress on the stopper will be to pull it out. If mounted the other way it would be pulled out, eventually. Half way through and mark it with the knife for cutting a groove about an 1/8″ toward the back.

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The groove cut in the stopper.

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Test fitting the stopper and it snaps in. Now remove it and drill two 1/8″ holes through the rubber stopper next to each other through the center.

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Take the plug cord and cut it. The short end is to the fish finder and the long end goes to the battery box.

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Slide the two wires through the two holes in the rubber stopper. I tied the white wire around the red so the wires will not slip when getting pull pressure from the plug.

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The stopper inserted in the box with the wires attached. It has been glued with Silicone RTV glue to hold and seal the stopper and to seal around the wires. A fuse was added on the positive wire and battery spade terminals crimped to the wires.

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A better view of the RTV glue covering the stopper.

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The battery, two small 6v batteries for emergency lights wired in series (negative on one to positive on the other) and duct taped to act as one 12v battery.

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The battery box finished and ready to deploy. Make sure you leash this box, I float tested it and it does not float! There is not enough air in the box to make it buoyant. You could buy the large box and add foam to possible make that one buoyant, but you would have to test it.

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Now to the Transducer deployment arm. This is 3/4″ square tubing available at Lowes or Home Depot. I have a 4″ to 5″ section that hangs the arm off the side of the kayak. You have to cut each piece to fit your specific kayak. There is a 2″ hex head Stainless steel bolt and lock nut though the two arms for the joint and a washer between the two arms.

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A side view of the deployment arm with the transducer bolted on with another Stainless steel bolt and lock nut.

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The deployment arm can be flipped up with the paddle blade if you run into shallow waters. This also shows how the transducer cable is run through the 3/4″ tubing. The bolts must be out so that the plug can slide through and once the cable is in you can put the bolts back in.

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Here is how the arm can tilt forward so it is not hanging off the side of the kayak when not deployed. Juts tighten the thumb screw up so it does not move while transporting.

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The inside view showing where transducer cable is rolled up and zip tied. The power cable is sitting in the foot well. In this picture I had not yet added the plug connector to it. The battery box just free floats in the foot well in front of the scupper plug.

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All  finished and ready to go fishing. 🙂 Now if just the snow and ice would melt!

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