After getting my Ride 135 I decided other than mounting flush rod holder in the rear, I was going to mount as much as possible using the no-drill methods with slide trax mounts. I started first with the Scotty rod holder bases. I wanted two up front I can use for rod holder when trolling in striper season and to mount PVC stubs for my blind during hunting season. I started, as I normally do, everything is drawn and sized in AutoCAD and then printed and paper and checked for proper fit and measurements. So I designed a template as you see below.
This is how the template looks when you print it out. You can download the template yourself and print it to make you own here: Scotty mount template This part is really important!! When you go to print this in Adobe, It will automatically select “Fit” or “Shrink Oversized Pages” and if you print it in either of these settings your template will be the wrong size and not fit the Scotty hole patterns!!! You must select “Actual Size” as I have shown below. Please measure the light blue dimensions I have shown to double check it is the correct size before making your bases with the template.
OK, so now you have a template and you can start making rod holder base mounts. You need a cutting board to make the bases. Walmart has white ones and I got a black one and I made two Scotty mounts and a depth finder mount and still have enough to make them all over again. Use the template and make marks on the cutting board for the size to cut out the base mount. I use my band saw, but a hand saw, jig or scroll saw would work fine. There will be a lot of melted tags on the back and scratches on the sides to sand off and you can sand/file the corners round.
Then you need to drill the holes. Scotty base mounts are setup for using 1/4″ bolts, so I suggest you get them in Stainless. I used 1/4-20 1″ bolts and 1/4″ Stainless nuts. So you need to drill 1/4″ holes or just a bit larger. You can wobble the bit if you need too to make it juts a bit larger. I use a drill press, but you can drill by hand, but you might want a center punch to start it. Plastic like this does not drill well with hand drills and pilot holes, so just drill with the main bit. A pilot hole in plastic makes the bit wobble and makes a mess. Just tape the template to the board and drill the holes as shown.
The next part I do not have too many pictures of, so you will have to follow my instructions. Since I was using 1″ bolts I used a 2″ bolt and slide it though the Scotty base and out the back where the nut will go. This bolt does not need to be stainless as you will not use it later. Push it all the way though and put the other three bolts and nuts into hold everything in place. Place a Stainless nut onto the 2″ bolt. Then heat the nut with a propane torch or similar heat source. The stainless nut will start to discolor as it becomes hot enough. If it starts to turn bronze colored, you are over heating it. Then use pliers or something like this and push the nut into the cutting board until it is flush inside the cutting board. Let it cool a little before removing the 2″ bolt and screwing in the 1″ bolt. A bout 30 seconds of time is enough. Some plastic will push up toward the Scotty base and on the bolt threads. I had to burn the plastic off the 2″ bolt between each hole and cool it back down. The remove the next bolt and repeat until all four are done. When finished the bolts will stick out slightly. I laid them on my belt sander and sanded the bolts flush with the bottom of the cutting board.
To mount the bases to the slide trax I used Slide trax nuts I made. See a previous blog post on how to make them from aluminum flat stock. I tapped them with 10-24 threads and use a 10-24 1″ stainless allen head bolts with washers
And of course you need to see what it looks like with the rod holder on the base on the kayak.